Process: construction methods in our shoes
We provide a simple guide of handcrafting our shoes so that you understand how the shoe, that you get to wear, comes to life. There are various construction methods in the shoe making process. By construction, we mean the method through which the outsole is attached to the upper of the shoe.
You are about to read a guide with the differences between two of the most common methods Goodyear vs Blake which are applied in the construction of our shoes.
Goodyear welting has been traditionally considered as the most superior quality process amongst other methods of construction. It is the most durable of all the methods but it is also the most complex.
It can be done by machine or by hand and it involves multiple steps. In the mock goodyear process normally both stitches between the upper part of the dress shoe are done by hand. Below you can check our video to understand the process that involves the creation of a pair of shoes with the mock goodyear.
Goodyear's main characteristic is that the stitch stitches the welt to the outsole instead of piercing it through to the inside of the shoe as in the Blake method. The sole attaches to the welt which then attaches to the upper.
The name of this method comes from Charles Goodyear Jr. (1833-1896) son of Charles Goodyear, who invented the rubber vulcanization process. Goodyear Jr. invented a welting process that attached the sole and the shoe by a machine called “Goodyear Welting Machine,”. That allowed shoes to be resoled easily and so these shoes were durable during years and even decades.
The advantages are the superior quality as a final product, their long durability, shoes are waterproof due to their construction,and that they can be resoled easily without a machine. A pair of this shoes can be in your wardrobe during years and they will always be a classic.
The main disadvantage of this method is its price, higher than other fabrication methods, which is also reasonable due to the difficulty of the process. This kind of shoes are also less flexible due to their internal structure.This product is less accessible for people with lower purchasing power.
Shop our Goodyear welted collection here
Blake welting is the simplest and most common amongst welting methods. Stitching is done on the inside of the shoe, making it possible to do by hand.
Shoes constructed with this method are more flexible than goodyear ones and can be resoled as well. The blake stitch, pierces through to the inside of the shoe.
The main advantage is the price, this kind of shoes are cheaper than one created with goodyear method. Due to the simpler structure of the shoe it is more flexible. Can be resoled with a specific machine but there is a limited number of times you can do it because each time the machine will create new holes in the upper. This product is more accessible to people with lower purchasing power.
There are some disadvantages, these shoes are not water resistant since their sides are not protected. In addition, there is a limited numbers of times that can be resoled, therefore they are less durable.
Check out some of our Blake welted shoes here
Another method which is not used by us is the Cemented which is the most simple and cheapest construction method. The upper is glued to the sole making it a flexible but not durable product. This kind of shoes are common in massive industrial production and have the inconvenience of "short life" and furthermore they cannot be easily resoled.